Frequently Asked Questions

Not always. We assess whether the existing tile can be tiled over based on its condition, the height change it would create at doorways and transitions, and the substrate underneath. In many cases, especially on floors, removing the old tile and starting fresh gives a better long-term result. We'll tell you which approach makes sense for your specific situation during the walkthrough.

Wood subfloors require a deflection check before any tile goes down. The floor system needs to be stiff enough to prevent tile and grout cracking over time. We typically install a layer of cement backer board or an uncoupling membrane (like Schluter Ditra) over the wood to create a stable, decoupled surface. Skipping this step is one of the most common reasons tile floors fail in older homes.

It depends on the time of year and current workload. We can often schedule a walkthrough within a week and start within two to three weeks for most jobs. Larger bathroom remodels or commercial projects may need more lead time for material ordering. Call us to get a current read on availability.

Larger tiles (12x24 or 24x24) can actually make a small bathroom feel bigger because there are fewer grout lines breaking up the visual field. The tradeoff is that large tiles require a very flat substrate, and more cuts are needed around fixtures. Small mosaic tiles (2x2 or smaller) are also popular for shower floors because they conform to the slope toward the drain without as much cutting. We'll walk through the options based on your specific layout.

Sanded grout contains fine sand aggregate and is used for joints wider than about 1/8 inch. It's more resistant to shrinkage cracking in wider joints. Unsanded grout is smoother and works better in narrow joints (under 1/8 inch) and on polished stone surfaces where sand could scratch the finish. Using the wrong type for your joint width is a common DIY mistake that leads to cracking or discoloration over time.

Most cement-based grouts benefit from a penetrating sealer, especially in kitchens and bathrooms where staining is a concern. Epoxy grouts are non-porous and don't require sealing. We recommend waiting at least 72 hours after grouting before applying sealer, and reapplying annually in high-traffic areas. We can apply the initial sealer as part of the job if you'd like.

Most thin-set mortars reach enough strength for light foot traffic in 24 hours, but we recommend 48 hours before normal use and 72 hours before moving heavy furniture back. Grout typically needs 24-72 hours to cure before getting wet, depending on the product. We'll give you specific timing based on the materials used on your job.

A cracked tile after installation usually points to one of a few causes: movement in the substrate underneath, an impact from a dropped object, or a tile that had a hidden flaw. We keep a small quantity of extra tile from each job so replacements match. Contact us when you notice it and we'll assess whether it's a substrate issue that needs addressing before replacing the tile.

Yes. Most of our residential jobs are in occupied homes. We use dust barriers, floor protection on adjacent surfaces, and run a shop vac during wet saw cutting to keep dust contained. We work around your schedule where possible and always clean up at the end of each workday. If a bathroom is the only one in the house, we plan the schedule so it's out of service for the shortest time possible.